Food Studies Matter, Meaning, Movement Creative Food Practices Photo Essay, Lynn M Walters

CREATIVE FOOD PRACTICES PHOTO ESSAY LYNN WALTERS THROUGH THEIR EYES Lynn Walters , Licensed Nutritionist ( is the founder of Cooking with Kids a organization that educates and empowers children and families to make healthy food choices through learning with fresh , affordable foods from diverse cultures . She is of Food as Communication Communication as Food , author of Cooking at the Natural Cafe in Santa Fe , and of The Cooking with Kids Cookbook She is interested in how the practices and cooking can support health equity and encourage positive behavior change at the individual , family , and community levels . 74 FOOD PHOTO ESSAY

Learning Outcomes After reading and discussing this photo essay , students should be able to Articulate a number of perspectives perceived by high school students on the on their food practices . Identify how food systems can help produce ( and threaten ) social equity . Describe the use of visual research methods in food ies . INSIGHTS FROM A NEW MEXICO CLASSROOM ON FACTORS THAT INFLUENCE FOOD PRACTICES In light of significant changes in food practices that began in the century , many of which have led to unhealthy dietary patterns that have contributed to increased prevalence of overweight and correlated chronic diseases , it is important to understand factors that the ways young people eat . Increasing understanding about how family , culture , and ing dietary habits can inform health communication and nutrition education interventions , as well as spur public icy strategies that promote healthy eating behavior . New Mexico is a land of contrasts , with big skies , high , sweeping deserts , and a deep and rich cultural history . Native Americans have lived in New Mexico for thousands of years . The Spanish colonized New Mexico in 1598 , but it was not until 1912 that it became the state . Anglo , and Native American cultures are the three major population groups , with the largest percentage per capita of and the second largest percentage per capita of LYNN WALTERS 75

Native Americans . in New Mexico are in selves a diverse group , including those of Spanish heritage , along with Mexican and Central and South American immigrants . It is estimated that about of residents speak Spanish . New Mexico is known for its Native American and Spanish Colonial art , and artists from across the world have long been drawn to the light and landscape . The state also consistently ranks at or near the bottom of the educational and economic ladders in the , and has a high degree of food insecurity . The of New Mexico reflect the varied geography and climatic conditions of the state , as well as the deep agricultural traditions and cultural diversity of its peoples . Chile , corn , beans , squash , and nuts all originated in the Americas . They are important food crops in New Mexico , and the basis for many traditional dishes . New Mexican cuisine is famous for its chile , grown in New Mexico for at least four hundred years . Chile develops its spicy and sweet in the hot summer fields . The state question , Red or Green ?

refers to red or green chile . This photo essay is the outcome of qualitative research ducted as a dissertation project at the University of New It presents the perspectives and insights of 14 New Mexico high school students on the on their food Students visually documented their food practices for five days , wrote a . The study was reviewed and approved by the Institutional Review Board at the University of New Mexico . Written active or passive informed consent was obtained from all study participants their parents , as required . Students photographs and quotations are identified by pseudonyms , along with demographic ( from New Mexico ) of Mexican descent ) first generation Mexican immigrant ) NA ( Native American ) A ( Anglo ) 76 FOOD PHOTO ESSAY

essay , compared food memories with daily food practices , and participated in focus groups and CULTURAL HERITAGE OF FAMILY Family and culture are inextricably intertwined , and cultural traditions are enacted , preserved , and evolve through family food practices . All of the students in the project expressed strong attachment to and valuing of the cultural culinary heritage of their families . Among students with close ties to Mexico , and those whose families have lived in New Mexico for generations , whether of Spanish or Native American heritage , it was more common to find a particularly strong view of the tion between culture and family than among the Anglo student participants . The following photographs ( see Figures to 10 ) provide a glimpse into cultural practices enacted through family food . The images primarily depict food traditions from New Mexico and Mexico ( the cultures of the majority of student participants ) and are interspersed with Native American food traditions and others . Walters , Lynn . 2015 . Through Their Own Eyes Exploring New Mexico High School Students Perceptions of the on Their Food Practices . May . LYNN WALTERS 77

What foods do you associate with your family traditions ?

A Figure My mom was making de res My parents did have money to food like a hamburger , but they could buy potatoes for 10 cents or whatever they could and they would put it all together . 78 FOOD PHOTO ESSAY Figure This plate means to me fajitas with rice , bell peppers , spinach , in a tortilla . LYNN WALTERS 79 Figure My mom made this kind of soup , with shrimp , jalapenos with love . 80 FOOD PHOTO ESSAY Ill Figure My mom was frying tortillas Since corn tortillas usually break easily , we dip them in oil and water olive oil is . You just dip em in , soak them a little bit , then put them on the pan . They be softer and more . Santiago ) LYNN WALTERS 81 Figure Miguel ( 82 FOOD PHOTO ESSAY

Figure My family is full of wonderful cooks My nana makes the best pies , cakes , and homemade ice cream . My father is the greatest at everything . He does use measuring cups because he . He also goes with my uncles , who do like to buy from the store . When I was growing up , my Nana would make a soup from acorn . She would pick acorns , grind them up , and pick the shells out . This process took the longest . Once she had the corn base taken care of , she then would make dumplings . All together the stew would consist of dumplings , stew meat , and the acorns . The soup has a very bitter taste . It something I had to get used to , just like coffee . Whenever I think of the soup , it reminds me of my ( LYNN WALTERS 83

Figure When Good Friday comes , it brings my mother and I together . I always at school and playing sports She always at work , comes home late , and tired . 84 FOOD PHOTO ESSAY Figure . LYNN WALTERS Figure 10 is an important part of my Mexican culture Cafe de is a special blend of coffee with cinnamon and cocoa bean in my family it is used to spend time with each other , friends , relatives , or to close business agreements with partners it is not eaten in times of sorrow because of the bright colors Lucas ( GENDER ROLES Food practices were often in the student narratives . Enactment of traditional gender roles , with women primarily responsible for household food , and men valued as professional chefs or in charge of the grill , was the norm in the majority of students families ( see Figures 11 to 15 ) 86 FOOD PHOTO ESSAY

What role does gender play in who cooks in your family ?

Figure 11 Miguel ( My brother and my don touch the think cooking is too complicated . My dad cant even warm up a ( LYNN WALTERS 87 Figure 12 In my culture , Hispanic culture , when there people who come over to the house we usually have a Once you start growing 12 , 13 , teach you how to set up the coal , how to start it up , put the spices on the meat , then while the guys do the cooking on the grill the girls begin the chopping to make the salsa and guacamole . Santiago ( Figure 13 We fry the mojarra ( and then we cut little triangular tortillas and fry those as well . We put onions , jalapenos , fry all that too . 88 FOOD PHOTO ESSAY

Figure 14 The tradition is to sit with the entire family and enjoy . The pica ale gallo , with the corn tortilla and a cup of are all essential parts to the meal . LYNN WALTERS 89 Figure 15 My grandpa always sits in the same spot I think of him as the head of the 90 FOOD PHOTO ESSAY family . I guess he is he started it . Miguel ( WHERE FOOD COMES FROM Congruent with the current food landscape , most students primarily purchased food from grocery stores and rants , including fast food outlets . Some also shopped at farmers markets and natural grocers . Many of the students expressed an awareness of where food comes from , and that they valued the knowledge and expertise needed to grow food . Farming or gardening was part of family and cultural practices for almost half of the students , but it was generally not a major current food source ( see Figures 16 to 20 ) Do you know where the food came from that you ate for lunch today ?

Figure 16 Miguel ( LYNN WALTERS 91 Figure 17 At home we have peaches , apricots , plums , and tomatoes and my brother started growing tomatoes and chile with special lights inside . 92 FOOD PHOTO ESSAY Figure 18 That a cow . My family was getting ready to butcher it for a wedding My grandfather can slaughter a cow blind . I kind of bonded with the cow a little bit and so I was a little sad to see him get shot in the head You have to kill it , then you have to clean it , then you have to cut everything up , then you have to dry it so its not all bloody . And you have to make sure that the dogs dont get it . I think I a bit traumatized because I wash the organs and I feel their warmth I ca bring myself to eat ( LYNN WALTERS 93

Figure 19 This is the backyard of my grandparents house . My grandpa grows chiles . A lot of the trees they re dead I do know anything about planting fruits or vegetables . Miguel ( My grandpa has three pieces of land ( or we call it in Mexico , el llano . He grows beans , he grows sorghum for his cattle , and he grows corn . Lately , these past years there been much rain in Mexico . He grows a little bit of beans to eat and a little bit to ( 94 FOOD PHOTO ESSAY

Figure 20 Peace and warm outside , when my mom has just watering the garden . After cleaning the patio is the time to rest on the front porch , drinking and eating seeds . We are having a nice family conversation about our future thinking back on my and my parents smell of wet dirt out in the breeze . FRICTION BETWEEN CULTURAL TRADITIONS AND DAILY FOOD PRACTICES Most of the students articulated their awareness of the friction between traditional and daily food practices . Although all of the students were cognizant of this issue , the and Native American students described these contradictions most vividly ( see Figures 21 and 22 ) How do you decide what to eat each day ?

Today food revolves around convenience , where food as a child was always something that we could all take our time ( Franco ( At home my parents are the because LYNN WALTERS 95 they if We don like the food in the cafeteria , what should we eat ?

or this place or that Santiago ( Figure 22 David ( 96 FOOD PHOTO ESSAY COMMERCIAL INFLUENCE Commercial , especially the rise of corporate control of the global food system , has been cited as a central cause of weight and correlated chronic disease ( see Figures 23 to 27 ) Many traditional dishes include beans , grains , meats , and vegetables , all of which contain vital nutrients that contribute to a healthy diet . Where do you think messages come from that imply that traditional foods are not healthy ?

Figure 23 Santiago ) LYNN WALTERS 97 Figure 24 Emily ( FA ) 98 FOOD PHOTO ESSAY Figure 26 Arturo ( LYNN WALTERS 99 At my friends house I could resort to eating john ( MA ) When I with my friends were usually more tempted to go out and get something When you cook you have to wash ( Figure 27 Miguel ( FOOD INSECURITY AND SHARING Hunger and food insecurity are prevalent in the lives of many students in New Mexico . When several students candidly cussed the lack of food access that their families faced , none of the other students appeared surprised . Despite this , sharing food with extended family and neighbors is a common practice ( see Figures 28 to 30 ) 100 FOOD PHOTO ESSAY

Have you or your friends or family ever gone to bed hungry ?

Figure 28 A community will come together and make sure that their families are make . Cause its really hard to cook at an open . Elders do it for family . Cooking is getting the ingredients and then cooking it , whether it a vigorous process or putting something in the microwave . LYNN WALTERS 101

Figure 29 After everything has been served , it was a little bit of leftovers that my mom had in one of the pots where we made the chicken fajitas . We do throw food away , cause we think it not right . Figure 30 My grandma would make a dish for them and send it every day . Miguel ( Several students reported that sometimes there was limited food available . John ( MA ) explained , Our food stamps were shut 102 FOOD PHOTO ESSAY

down the past month , and so I have just been eating less and less school lunch has been my main meal . We had some dried beans , but I didn want to bother with them . I have been eating very little , but it seems like I always have enough to eat to get Isabella ( said , Obviously were not broke because We still have our house , but its like the deadline of our budget , and she mom says , Were having ramen That when you know were at our FOOD PRACTICES AND HEALTH Although multiple factors have an impact on a healthy access , food preferences , and students observed that cooking was a way to control the cost and quality of the food that they ate . In a world in which prepared and packaged foods are available on most street corners , food selection and cooking skills support healthy food practices ( see Figures 31 to 33 ) What does healthy food mean to you ?

I wanted to play basketball and I had to have a physical , and they told me that I was and my family had to change everything from what I was drinking to What I was eating . We used to have a lot of junk food sweet bread and chips . Besides being a lot healthier , I feel much better , my . I was 230 pounds and I was only 12 . It was like a ( LYNN WALTERS 103

Figure 31 My grandma on my mom side has diabetes . My mom decided she was going to grow old soon and did want to be like that . We all feel more energized , more awake . kind of weird like the whole diet at my house changed completely . Lucas ( Figure 32 Emily ( FA ) 104 FOOD PHOTO ESSAY

Figure 33 My friend holding an peeled it in one giant peel . I not that I was at her house and I do eat fruits and things like that . David ( COOKING AS A LIFE SKILL Cooking may range from making toast to creating a meal . Most of the cooking reported by students during the was relatively simple , with the exception of the traditional dishes that students photographed and described . If one has basic foods , a sharp knife , a few pots and pans , running Water , and a heat source , much is possible ( see Figures 34 to 43 ) How do you cooking ?

We make soups . that you can make fast . Since were going to be college students , being able to make something with ease is ( Franco ( My can cook a little bit . just a basic need . Cause if you ca cook , what are your options ?

Eat that takes a lot of money . It a life David ( LYNN WALTERS 105 Figures I am required to eat something fast and convenient . I made the burrito ?

Franco ( 106 FOOD PHOTO ESSAY Figures These photos show a family working together to make a meal , me and my sisters its not frozen food that heated up . We actually cooked breakfast When you cook you appreciate the meal a lot more , the time and effort you put into it . where the phrase , cooking with love , comes from . John ( MA ) LYNN WALTERS 107

Figure 42 ( I go shopping and try to make a lot of it and freeze it and warm it up for the rest of the week cause I don have time to be cooking every night . So I have just been making soup cause its easy and soup , chicken curry , beef ( 108 FOOD PHOTO ESSAY

Figure 43 David ( When I go to college next year , I dont want to be shopping at . I want to buy my own food and cook Lucas ( HONORING FAMILY AND CULTURAL TRADITIONS Many of the students expressed respect for the food practices of their elders , as well as the desire to preserve their cultural and family by learning how to cook and share traditional foods ( see Figures 44 to 47 ) LYNN WALTERS 109

How do you think that you will continue your family and cultural food traditions ?

Figure 44 Tradition is that we cook together , eat together , and clean up together . 110 FOOD PHOTO ESSAY ( observed , Its not the de res , the pico de gallo , the corn tortillas , the rice or the the presence of the people around you that really make the dish Worth the ( concurred , We are united because we our traditions . I plan to share these traditions with other people and my own children in the Figure 45 Arturo ( LYNN WALTERS 111

Figure 47 Miguel ( Thank you to the students who generously shared their stories ! Discussion Questions How might increased access to a Variety of foods , including fresh fruits , vegetables , and whole 112 FOOD PHOTO ESSAY grains , exert positive pressure to enact healthy food practices ?

How might cooking skills increase food access and counterbalance commercial practices of nary imperialism ?

How have processed foods changed cooking and eating patterns ?

What role do you think that gender plays in who cooks ?

How has this changed ( or not ) over the past 100 years ?

What is healthy food ?

What is good food ?

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International Food Policy Institute ( Mak , Cole , Bates , Stephen , Patterns of and food practice in relation to fruit and vegetable consumption in dren results from the UK National Diet and Nutrition Survey Rolling Programme ( Public Health Nutrition 16 ( 11 ) McGee , 1984 . On Food and Cooking . New York Charles ner Sons , 2004 . Places for Childhood , 11 ( Walters , 2015 . Through their own eyes Exploring New Mexico high school students perceptions of the influences on their food 114 FOOD PHOTO ESSAY