Dress, Appearance, and Diversity in US Part II Dress and Marginalized Communities Chapter 8 Sex and Gender

PART II DRESS AND MARGINALIZED COMMUNITIES AND GENDER Module Learning Objectives ( In this chapter , you will Sex Identify foundational concepts and theories related to sex and gender , fashion , identity , appearance , and dress . Identify the numerous aspects of transition for individuals in the transgender and communities in the United States . Identify different types of dress worn by the transgender and communities in the United States to affirm their gender identities . Identify trans and people experiences in the United States wearing different dress objects reflecting their trans and identities . Identify different fashion brands that produce and sell dress objects for the transgender and non binary communities in the United States to affirm their gender identities . Identity how gender expressions and norms have shifted and changed over time and across different cultures . Explain the role of dress and appearance in the development of one sex assigned at birth and their gender . Examine social justice issues related to dress and appearance of the transgender and communities in the United States . Deconstruct your own perspectives and approach to understanding the dress and appearance of the transgender and communities in the United States . Identify the driving forces of transformative social justice change in the fashion system related to transgender and identities in the United States . Sex is a way of distinguishing individuals based on a collection of biological traits . These traits include

SEX AND GENDER I 68 reproductive organs chromosomes hormones secondary sex characteristics , such as breast development . Sex is often associated with the words male and female , and throughout much of Western culture it is presented as a binary . People who challenge the binary sex system are grouped under the umbrella term intersex . Often , someone is labeled as intersex when they have ambiguous genitalia , though this term can apply to a variety of situations in which a person is born with reproductive or sexual anatomy that fit the box of female or intersex individuals are fairly common , and approximately of the human population is intersex . Sometimes intersex individuals undergo surgical interventions during infancy , decisions made for them by their parents , caregivers , or medical practitioners , so they can more easily identify as one sex , but many intersex people view these interventions as cruel or unnecessary . Tricky Terminology The term hermaphrodite has been used to refer to intersex people in the past , but starting around the has been viewed as derogatory . Required reading Terms and Definitions for topics Gender In contrast to sex , gender is defined as the social construction of femininity and masculinity . While sex is defined by one biological and physical traits , gender is a performance of mannerisms , posture , movement , vocal tone , word choice , and dress that serves to present a specific identity to the rest of society . Although they often overlap , a person gender identity , their internal understanding of their own gender , might not reflect their gender expression , the behavior , actions , and style in which they express their gender . For example , a closeted trans woman might choose to present herself in more masculine clothing until she feels more comfortable presenting her gender identity to those around her . Alternatively , someone might choose to present themselves with a more intense expression of the gender they identify with ( a woman might wear makeup , high heels , and pencil skirts ) due to social pressures to perform one gender within a certain environment ( a business office ) When someone gender identity and expression align with the social expectations of the sex they were assigned at birth , that individual is considered . The term cis is a Latin prefix meaning on or from the same side . Most people would consider identifying with a gender other than the one they were assigned with their sex at birth . This sense of belonging is not a bad thing , but it is important to recognize it as

69 I SEX AND GENDER an unearned and unrecognized privilege . For example , people are often catered to when it comes to the presentation of body wash , deodorant , and shampoo options at the convenience store . While these soaps and detergents are all gender neutral in function , their packaging and presentation give them a presence that could make someone who is not feel uncomfortable or uncertain about which product to purchase . privilege becomes particularly clear when one considers the stigmatization of people who are not , known as or simply . Transgender and Gender Nonconforming Transgender is an umbrella term for someone whose gender identity or gender expression does not align with social expectations based on the sex they were assigned at birth . Sometimes , transgender individuals will call themselves trans , a shorthand version of the term . A related term is , which more specifically identifies those individuals who often , but not always , undergo transition processes . Required Reading National Center for Transgender Equality . 2018 , October ) Understanding People How to Be Respectful and Supportive . Retrieved from and National Center for Transgender Equality . 2016 , July ) Understanding Transgender People The Basics . Retrieved from Transitioning Transitioning is the process of changing one gender expression to match one gender identity . A person transitioning from male to female , using pronouns ( sometimes called a or , simply , a woman ) A person transitioning from female to male , using pronouns ( sometimes called a or , simply , a man ) or describes a gender identity that is neither nor , often comfortable blurring gender lines . For members of the trans and communities , process of transition includes many elements awareness legal identification coming out or sharing

SEX AND GENDER I 70 surgeries , One or more interactive elements has been excluded from this version of the text . You can view them online here ?

To view a transcript for the video above , download this file Coming Out as or Gender Video Transcript genders In cultures outside of the United States , there are numerous examples of gender identities outside of the woman binary Five genders of , Indonesia ofthe Ottoman Empire of Mexico of Thailand of Indonesia of India of North America One or more interactive elements has been excluded from this version of the text . You can view them online here . To view a transcript for the video above , download this file Two Spirit Video Transcript DOC Manus of Hawaii One or more interactive elements has been excluded from this version of the text . You can view them online here

71 I SEX AND GENDER a An interactive element has been excluded from this version of the text . You can view it online here Trans , and Identities and Dress Trans and ( individuals can conform to dress stereotypes in an effort to pass or challenge notions of femininity and masculinity to appear visibly . Appearances that challenge binary gender constructions by combining or negating feminine and masculine aesthetics are often interchangeably referred to as , genderless , or unisex ( 2015 ) Some people may want to appear more ( or passing ) and some may want to appear more ( Allen , 2010 ) however , expression is less binary . Furthermore , individuals continually negotiate their gender performance ( Butler , 1990 ) and may engage in shape shifting , or altering their appearance depending on the situation ( McGuire et , 2016 ) Numerous factors influence gender presentation . For example , some individuals may wish to appear because it can lead to correct gender identification by others or help them avoid dangerous situations ( 1967 et , 2009 , 2009 ) Being visibly can also allow individuals to promote visibility and challenge cultural assumptions about gender . Additionally , individuals use dress to camouflage body parts they may believe do not align with their gender identity or to highlight and reveal body parts that align with their gender identity ( 2009 McGuire et , 2016 Reilly et , 2019 ) McGuire and Reilly ( 2020 ) have developed an aesthetic identity framework using a combination of aesthetic , gender , and human development theories to study clothing choices . Their model incorporates and safety aspects of presentation sensory , cognitive , and emotional aspects of clothing exploration and commitment scaffolding and feedback and and . They argue As individuals mature in their sense gender identity , they will consolidate their aesthetic identity and begin to take on social roles ( role taking ) that they will adapt ( role making ) The aesthetic identity will be a way of claiming and shaping an individual placement within a gender role , as well as making meaning of that gender role for themselves and others . 2015 ) suggested that people are often forced to wear clothing that is physically or psychologically uncomfortable . However , the majority of participants in study were White , so these feelings may not apply to all racial and cultural backgrounds . Still , regardless of one background , apparel designed for bodies may not fit bodies appropriately . clothing often does not meet individuals functional and aesthetic needs . Reilly et al . 2019 ) identified three themes some people associate with searching for clothing fit , cut , and sizing issues with mainstream clothing desire to use clothing to hide body parts that reveal a identity and desire to reveal body parts to celebrate or show pride in one body and a design to highlight bodily changes post gender confirmation treatment ( 12 )

SEX AND GENDER I 72 The study participants were diverse in racial and ethnic identities , suggesting these themes reflect experiences people regardless of race . Some individuals may employ tailoring services to make apparel fit their bodies . Additionally , with the growing visibility of individuals , some clothing brands are responding to consumers needs by offering apparel designed specifically for the market ( Detroit , Official Rebrand , Saint Harridan , and Supply ) Catalpa and McGuire ( 2020 ) found dress contributes to ( 2007 ) mirror epiphany , or the first encounter with one authentic self Dress helps make a conscious connection between how they imagined themselves and the material reality of their physical presence ( Catalpa McGuire , 2020 , Moreover , individuals may employ tattoos as a sign of , to connect with their body , to mark their identity , or to celebrate physical changes to the body ( McGuire et , 2016 McGuire , 2016 ) Trans Gear Trans gear , or objects worn by trans people to affirm their gender identity , is a major part trans dress . Chest Binding One common piece among transgender men is a chest binder . Chest binding involves the compression tissue for masculine gender expression among people assigned a female sex at birth . Required Reading Sarah , Ivy Gardner , Jamie , Alexandra ( 2017 ) Health impact of chest binding among transgender adults A , study , Culture , Health Sexuality , Retrieved from The first study to review chest binding in depth , conducted in 2016 , included a sample adults . of the participants in the study reported at least one negative outcome they attributed to chest binding , including back pain ( overheating ( chest pain ( shortness of breath ( itching ( posture (

73 I SEX AND GENDER shoulder pain ( Despite discomfort , though , the participants also stated that binding made them feel less anxious , reduced depression and , improved overall emotional , and enabled them to safely go out in public with confidence . One participant said , Binding allowed me to present my gender as I felt it to be by flattening my chest and causing it to look more male . It helped to affirm my gender by appearance . Watch this video to learn more about how to safely use a chest binder One or more interactive elements has been excluded from this version of the text . You can view them online here ?

To view a transcript for the video above , download this file How to use a binder safely Video Transcript Packing Another type of trans gear is a packer , padding or a phallic object placed in the pants to give the appearance of a bulge . Like chest binding , this implement of dress is used by those who prefer to present as masculine . Packing can be done in many ways for example , people create packers by bundling socks or purchase packers and packing accessories , such as packing shorts and straps made for safely securing packers . Example Video Watch this short video on packers and devices to learn more Show and Tell of Packers and Devices for if Tucking Finally , a trans person might choose to use tucking to feel more comfortable about their gender expression . Tucking is the practice of arranging the external genitals between the legs with clothing . Since only about 12 of transgender women might obtain a vaginoplasty ( a surgical procedure that results in the construction of reconstruction of a vagina ) tucking , like chest binding , can help prevent depression . Trans individuals might tuck with tape or with ofa gaff , a garment used to tuck the genitals inward . You can watch the video below to learn more about

SEX AND GENDER I 74 One or more interactive elements nas been excluded from this version of tne text . You can view them online here ?

To View a transcript for the video above , download this file How to make a Gaff for Tucking Video Transcript DOC 75 I SEX AND GENDER References Allen , 2010 ) Connecting body and mind How transgender people changed their self image . Women Performance , 20 ( Butler , 1990 ) Gender trouble Feminism and the subversion of identity . New York . Catalpa , McGuire , 2020 ) Mirror epiphany use of dress to create and sustain their affirmed gender identities . In Reilly Barry ( Crossing boundaries Fashion to deconstruct and reimagine gender ( Bristol , UK Intellect Books . 1967 ) Studies in . A . 2013 ) London . McGuire , A . 2016 ) Body art among transgender youth Marking social support , reclaiming the body , an creating a narrative identity . In ( The young are making their world Essays on the power culture ( Jefferson , McGuire , Doty , Ola , 2016 ) Body image in transgender young people Findings from a qualitative , community based study . Body Image , 18 , McGuire , Reilly , A . online first in 2020 ) Aesthetic identity development among trans adolescents and young adults . Clothing and Textiles Research Journal . 20975382 , 2015 ) The gender binary meets the child Parents negotiations with childhood gender variance . Gender Society , 29 ( Reilly , Catalpa , McGuire , 2019 ) Clothing fit issues of trans people . Fashion Studies , Boyd , Leaf , 2009 ) Emotion work in the public performances of male to female transsexuals . Archives of Sexual Behavior 38 ( 2007 ) Whipping girl A transsexual woman on sexism and the scapegoating of femininity . Berkeley , CA Seal Press . 2009 ) A new hope The psychic life of passing . 24 ( 2011 ) ideas that changed fashion . London Laurence King .

SEX AND GENDER 76 Sex and Gender Case Study Step One Become familiar with the case study . The case study attached below is a Word document and can be downloaded . It includes the task , evaluation , and template for the case study Sex and Gender Case Study DOC Step Two Submit your complete assignment on Canvas . Format your document . Remember to check the submission against the rubric .