Dress, Appearance, and Diversity in US Part II Dress and Marginalized Communities Chapter 13 Race and Ethnicity

13 . RACE AND ETHNICITY Module Learning Objectives ( In this chapter , you will Identify foundational concepts related to race , ethnicity , fashion , identity , appearance , and dress . Identify different types of dress worn by people of color in the United States . Identify people of experiences wearing different dress object reflecting their race ethnicity in the United States . Identify different fashion brands that produce and sell dress objects for people of color in the United States . Explain the role of dress and appearance in the development of one racial ethnic identity in the United States . Examine how dress and appearance of people of color in the United States are represented in the fashion system ( advertisements or retailers ) Examine issues related to dress and appearance for people of color in the United States . Deconstruct your own perspectives and approach to understanding the dress and appearance of people of color in the United States . Identify the driving forces of transformative social justice change in the fashion system related to people of color in the United States . Ethnicity versus Race Race refers to physical characteristics that separate individuals into groups . In contrast , ethnicity is culturally determined and may not be reflected physically . Both , however , are social constructions reinforced by society to classify human differences . These classifications are often based on skin color , hair texture , and facial features , as well as other arbitrary physical characteristics . The categories that have evolved to categorize

RACE AND ETHNICITY I 128 groups are different depending on one location and culture , and the meanings of these terms have shifted over time . Rule In the United States , racial formation developed along an opposition between Black and White . Anyone with one drop of Blackness was identified as Black . So , if someone has a White mother and Black father , they will typically identify as Black ( Barack Obama ) This classification has roots in the system of slavery in the United States . Racial classification South Africa during Apartheid Racial segregation was legal In South Africa from 1948 to 1994 . An individual was considered Black if a pencil could stick in their hair and not fall out . If it fell , the individual was This is clearly a flawed system , but it was not meant to be exact or accurate it was only meant to reinforce the existing perceptions and classifications of race within that culture . What in a Name ?

There are various names for different ethnic groups in the United States these have differed over time and with a growing understanding of the various cultures represented in US society . It is important to develop a sensitivity to the terms marginalized groups prefer for themselves . African American Black African Americans or Black people prefer different terms for various reasons , from generational differences to political or social differences . Not all African Americans identify as Black , and not all Black people identify as African American . This is particularly true of Black people who live in America but were born in , for example , England , Kenya , or Mexico . Native American Indian Similarly , different Native American groups use different names to refer to themselves some use Indigenous peoples or First Nations . Although the term Indian has often received pushback , since the people did not originate in India , some Native Americans do use the term American Indian to refer to themselves .

129 I RACE AND ETHNICITY Hispanic American Latino Hispanic and do not necessarily refer to the same thing . Hispanic refers to individuals with heritage in a country , whereas refers to someone from Latin America . While there is some overlap in these definitions , they are not interchangeable ! It is often more accurate to refer to someone by their nation of origin rather than a broad category . For example , Mexican , Chilean , Puerto Rican , and other more specific classifications might be used to distinguish an individual rather than the term Latino . Oriental Asian American Finally , some terms used to refer to a group of people are still used despite being derogatory . Oriental is one such term that is no longer in accepted use . Instead of calling someone an Oriental , you could refer to them as Asian American . However , similar to individuals , it often best to refer to Asian people living in the United States based on their preferred term , which might be their ethnicity of origin ( Korean , Taiwanese , Chinese , Hawaiian , for example ) or a more specific term ( Chinese American ) Roots of Ethnicity Ethnicity is a learned cultural heritage typified by national origin , ideology , style of dress , dietary habits , and , often , language . While a student from China and a Chinese person whose family has lived in the United States for three generations might share a race , they will have differences in ethnicity based on the different ways Chinese American culture has evolved to have its own style , dietary habits , and ideology . Watch this short film about Chinese culture , appearance , and fashion . a One or more interactive elements has been excluded from this version of the text . You can view them online here Inequalities of Power Historically , people of color ( ethnic minorities , have faced racism and exclusion from mainstream US society . Those in power in the United States are White people with European heritage . Achieving economic and social equality with White individuals has been difficult for people of color . This power difference is referred to as hegemony . Racial equity is when equal regard is offered to all races . It is the elimination of policies , practices , attitudes , and cultural messages that reinforce differential outcomes by race or that fail to eliminate them .

ETHNICITY I 130 This inequality is reflected in unequal representation within fashion magazines . Research has shown that fashion magazines lack racial diversity , despite improvement over time . Jackson ( 1991 ) studied racial representation in Cosmopolitan , Glamour , and Vogue between 1986 and 1988 . 97 of the models represented were White . representation consisted of Black individuals , Asian individuals , and virtually no Hispanic individuals . Building on this work , Mayo et al . 2005 ) studied racial representation in Vogue between 1993 and 1997 . They found a slight increase in Black representation ( though the vast majority of models were still White . Finally , Fowler ( 2015 ) studied 2011 issues of Elle , Cosmopolitan , Harper Bazaar , Vogue , and Marie Claire and found that the representation were 83 white , 19 Asian , Hispanic , and only Black . Fashion media , also highlights unequal representation see , for example , this article by Gemma Kim , published on DEC DIVERSITY ON MAGAZINE COVERS DID NOT IMPROVE IN 2015 We took a look at 136 covers from 10 leading fashion publications , and while some did better than others , the results were not encouraging . GEMMA KIM ' Image Fashionista December 2015

131 I ETHNICITY What is ?

is interracial discrimination based on skin color stratification . Typically , lighter skin is preferred , along with facial and physical closely associated with Caucasian standards of beauty ( Hunter , 2005 ) Since slavery , there has been evidence of discrimination based on skin color . Black slaves were more likely to be given indoor work , while Black slaves were more likely to be given field work . This is typified in the test , which was used to compare a person complexion to a paper bag in order to exclude African Americans from clubs , schools , and churches ( Russell , Wilson , Hall , 1992 ) in Hollywood , a Hollywood actor and fashion icon , spoke out in 2014 about her experience with in the fashion industry . Watch Black Women in Hollywood speech , posted by ( Essence 2020 ) This quote from the clip highlights why diversity must be represented And then came on the international scene . A celebrated model , she was dark as night , she was on all of the runways and in every magazine and everyone was talking about how beautiful she was . When I saw I inadvertently saw a reflection of myself that I could not deny . 2014 ) To access a full transcript of speech , download this document Speech Video Transcript DOC This is just common , either studies have looked into in the fashion industry just as they have racial representation . Even within Ebony magazine , which focuses on and features Black people in the United States , models and those with more European facial features dominated the magazine from the 19505 to the 19905 ( Leslie , 1995 , 1996 )

RACE AND ETHNICITY I 132 Example Hair Straightening African Americans have used hair straightening as one strategy to fit into the dominant White society after slavery was abolished ( 2001 ) Hierarchies that privilege straight hair and finer hair textures still exist today . Robinson ( 2011 ) studied what Black women perceived as good hair and bad hair based on the society in which they live , and the women in the study stated that good hair does not need straightening ( Robinson , 2011 , 368 ) Watch this short film about Black women , hair , and style . One or more interactive elements has been excluded from this version of the text . You can view them online here The fashion industry reinforces the effects of by offering creams and straightening techniques ( 1997 Brooks , Brown , Hampton , 2008 Porter , 1991 , 2003 ) in Korean Fashion Media The use of imagery that reinforces by the fashion industry has become particularly pervasive in South and East Asian culture , particularly among media aimed at young Korean women . At Iowa State University , graduate student Choi , in their thesis , Korean fashion media , beauty ideals , and Examining the prominence of Whiteness between 2013 and 2017 in magazine , analyzed images presented ( They chose this magazine since it is produced in and for Korea and widely circulated . Choi coded the images within the magazine based on race ( Black , Asian , White , Other Person of Color , or ) facial features ( and hairstyle ( straight , curly , tied , no hair ) They found that the most common race represented was Asian , followed by White , and that most of the Asian women presented in the magazine had facial features and unnaturally dyed and styled hair to reflect the hairstyles popular among White women ( curly , lighter hair ) Watch this short film about Korean culture , women , identity , and dress . a One or more interactive elements has been excluded from this version of the text . You can view them online here .

133 RACE AND ETHNICITY Watch this short film about Indian culture , women , dress , and identity . One or more interactive elements has been excluded from this version of the text . You can view them online here Watch this short film about Comanche identity , fashion , and dress . One or more interactive elements has been excluded from this version of the text . You can view them online here Race and Ethnicity Case Study Step One Become familiar with the case study . The case study attached below is a Word document and can be downloaded . It includes the task , evaluation , and template for the case study Race and Ethnicity Case Study DOC Step Two Submit your complete assignment on Canvas . Format your document . Remember to check the submission against the rubric .