Dress, Appearance, and Diversity in US Part I Dress Theories and Concepts Chapter 2 Dress, Appearance, and Identity

. DRESS , APPEARANCE , AND IDENTITY Module Learning Objectives ( In this chapter , you will Identify foundational concepts and theories related to identity and dress . Identify pioneering scholars in the identity and dress discipline . Identify the sources of the information and research for the course content . Summarize the role of dress in identity development . Explain the ways individuals learn about how to dress . Explain various motivations for dress . Analyze the relationships among stigma , stigma management , identity , and dress . Deconstruct your own perspectives and approaches to understanding the dress of others . The material presented in this book comes from studies or research in various fields of inquiry , or disciplines . Some of the fields that relate to the topics covered in this book include those listed below psychology social psychology anthropology women studies fashion studies Scholars and researchers ( professors , government agencies , and ) do systematic inquiry through studies , research , and anonymous peer review prior to their work being published . What Is Peer Review ?

Peer review is a really important part of publishing scholarship . Much ofthe work discussed in this book is from I DRESS , APPEARANCE , AND IDENTITY research . research , the lengthy process outlined below , can take anywhere from six months to multiple years . Researcher ( conducts a study and write ( up their results in a paper . The researcher ( submit ( their paper to an editor . Keeping the author ( name ( anonymous , the editor sends the paper out to two or more reviewers who evaluate it for content and rigor . The reviewers decide whether the paper should be published also suggest changes ( often , a significant number of changes ) The ( edit ( their paper based on the reviewers feedback ( sometimes over multiple rounds ) Finally , the paper is published . Types of Inquiry There are many ways to study dress , appearance , and identity . The following are a few examples observation ethnography , prolonged engagement with community today there are both and online ethnographic methods . material culture study of objects such as at a museum or in an archive . historical investigation examination of documents , garments , and other primary sources to tell the story of the past . survey fill in the blank , check a box . interviews both individual and focus groups ( multiple people ) Example of a research paper Below is an example ofa published paper . Scholars at Cornell University conducted the research and then published it in an . Study Negotiating Identities in the Furry Fandom through Costuming ( Green 2016 ) Method The authors used various methods to investigate how individuals negotiate their varying identities through costume at furry conventions . Drawing on ethnography , the scholars attended and observed two furry fandom conventions . They also conducted interviews and asked questions of attendees . Watch this short video to see a visual of a furry convention .

DRESS , APPEARANCE , AND IDENTITY a One or more interactive elements has been excluded from this version of the text . You can view them online here ?

To view a transcript for this video , download this file 2017 Brings Furry Fandom to Pittsburgh Video Transcript DOC This video example uses anecdotal evidence , or evidence based on or consisting usually of reports or observations of unscientific observers . That is , this video was not and published in an academic forum . While anecdotal evidence can be important and can not be discounted , much of the work in this book is from literature . Dress and Dressing Dress is notjust this yellow garment Dress is an intentional and unintentional modification of appearance , what people do to their bodies to maintain , manage , and alter appearance . This includes objects worn on or around the body modifications to the body ( plastic surgery ) Dressing is the behavior related to dress or actions related to how one appears . This person is wearing a yellow dress . However , in fashion studies dress refers to much more than the composition of an object such as this yellow garment . Image Source Built by King

I DRESS , APPEARANCE , AND IDENTITY Pioneering Scholars in Fashion Studies Susan Kaiser Elizabeth Way Ben Barry Phyllis Bell Miller I . Jasmine Helm Christina Moon Amanda Muhammad Sanders Lauren Downing Peters Regan de Matthews , one of the pioneering scholars in fashion studies . Image Source Matthews . Mary Ellen Kim Johnson Lennon Nancy Rudd Joanne Fred Davis Christopher Denise Nicole Green Carol Kim Jenkins Matthews Ford

DRESS , APPEARANCE , AND IDENTITY I Objects Clothing is an example of an object worn on or around the body and refers to objects that enclose and envelop the body in some way . They may be wrapped around the body suspended from the body fitted to the body to the body . These are examples The head covering , also called a hijab , are Ems i ) iS ' is an example of clothing . The top and dress . a ' ame skirt are also examples of clothing . including a blazer , shorts , sneakers . arid Pa A Image Source and Jewelry . Image Source ti ?

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be dress obJect , since it IS around or next to the body . Image Source Productions Other examples of dress objects include accessories , shoes , and other objects worn on the body , such as braces attached to the teeth . Modifications Modifications are also a part of dress . These might include additions or reductions to the actual body , such as losing weight or hair extensions . Modifications also involve changing hair color , clipping nails , tanning , and

I DRESS , APPEARANCE , AND IDENTITY straightening by wearing braces . Wearing perfume , showering , and having hair implants completed are also examples of modifications . Teeth whitening processes also fall under the category of dress , as they modify the color of tooth enamel . Following are examples of reductions and modifications to the body all Na is example dress Makeup and fake eyelashes are Plastic surgery , both invasive and because alters the examples of dress modification . noninvasive , is an example of dress Color Of the Image ' Image Source Greta Hoffman modification . In this example , a person is being prepared to have plastic surgery on their eyelid . Image Source

DRESS , APPEARANCE , AND IDENTITY I 10 , In a . Shaving one face with a razor is a form of dress reduction . Image Source John a An interactive element has been excluded from this version of the text . You can view it online here . Motivations for dress There are four larger motivations for how and why people dress . These do not capture every single nuance , but they are the four most prominent themes . protection for example , from natural elements modesty avoids indecency communication highlights various identities ( age , gender , race , religion , sexuality , status , etc . adornment emphasizes decorative or aesthetic function

11 I DRESS , APPEARANCE , AND IDENTITY Dress and dressing are complex . Dress is more than just objects . It is laden with meaning . The dressed and undressed body is a project of both conscious and subconscious continual construction . Identity Identity has numerous definitions . In general , identity refers to an organized set of characteristics that express various aspects of who you are . Dress is used to communicate our identities , such as race religion sex gender sexuality ability The Situated Self or situations influence individuals to dress and act differently , depending on which identity is salient . The concept of the situated ( Kaiser , 1997 ) refers to the idea that given any context , a person may dress or act differently depending upon which identity is most salient at the time . This is part of what are called identity negotiation processes . This means that identities are negotiated , or , in other words , continually in flux , not static . This is especially true for individuals who occupy more than one marginalized identity . For example , Black gay men have explained that their Black identities might be more salient in Black spaces , yet within queer spaces they have to choose to whether their Black identities or gay identities might be more salient , depending on the composition of any given group ( Cole , 2019 ) This is necessarily always true for Black people , as there are varied experiences of being both Black and 2019 ) The identity negotiation process is the continual process of shifting and changing appearance and dress depending on the development of identity . It is often thought of as a knot as one knot loosens , another tightens . This similar to how we as humans experience our different identities . One identity becomes more prominent in any given situation . Socialization Socialization refers to learning about how to behave and image , by Mike ) appear . This is often passed on through agents , individuals

DRESS , APPEARANCE , AND IDENTITY 12 who teach us norms and values of our society through modeling or direct instruction . Some of these agents include parents peers media professionals ( teachers , coaches , doctors , et cetera ) cultural beliefs ( written or unwritten norms ) personal shoppers retailers or manufacturers Identity and Dress Identities are communicated through how we appear and what we wear ( Kaiser , 2012 ) Identities are also communicated through objects around us , including the places we live and the transportation we use , among many many other examples . Dress and appearance practices , though , announce who we are depending on which identity we are communicating at any one time . For example , while on campus , you might wear a from your university , announcing your connection to it and demonstrating that you identify as a part of that community as a student , fan , or perhaps alumnus ( Lennon , johnson , Rudd , 2017 ) This university community identity might not be important to communicate if , for example , you are attending a wedding . There are different types of identities . For instance , a collective or social identity comes from being a part of a group having group membership . For example , membership in a particular year in school is a collective identity . Therefore , you could identify as a student in college . Another collective identity could be tied to race . For example , a person of African descent may identify as part of the Black community due to their ties to their race ( Lennon , Johnson , Rudd , 2017 ) Many people have numerous collective identities surrounding their race , gender , sexuality , sex , religion , body size and shape , ability , ethnicity . A second example of an identity is personal identity . Personal identities concern individual traits . Individual traits can include , for instance , being funny , open , conscientious , agreeable , adventurous , or closed off ( Lennon , Johnson , Rudd , 2017 ) Numerous parts of one identity reflect personal traits . Therefore , while you might identify as an outdoors person , the adventurous part of your identity is called the personal identity , whereas the outdoors person could reflect your membership in the group , or your collective identity . Relational identities are a third example . These refer to relationships , such as or . Dress can reflect relational identities , just it can the other types of identities . For instance , sometimes when families go together to Disney World they wear matching outfits or . And two women who are married may wear wedding rings to signify their relational identity .

13 DRESS , APPEARANCE , AND IDENTITY Body work One part of identity negotiations and dress modification is referred to as body work . Body work includes managing the body through physical activity or exercise , dieting or watching what one eats , using , undergoing cosmetic surgery , and many other activities . Image Source Cliff Booth A person might also wear a certain style of clothes to change the shape of the body , perhaps hiding or emphasizing parts of the body . One might hide parts of the body by wearing baggy clothes , whereas they might reveal parts of the with tight or clothing ( crop tops ) People of all genders do body work ( Lennon , Johnson , Rudd , 2017 ) Identity Development Online In the century , thanks to advances in and increased usage of technology , many people develop their identities online . You might use a virtual community to try out different identities for instance , in virtual reality chat , you can put on an identity within an anonymous space . Online spaces help users anonymously normalize identities and behaviors anonymously ( people who have anorexia , moms , et cetera )

DRESS , APPEARANCE , AND IDENTITY I 14 Stigma and Identity Stigma refers to a mark or of disapproval , or a stain on one reputation ( 1963 ) Stigmatized identities are those identities that violate a societal norm for a particular time or space . Numerous identities are stigmatized . For example , fat people often experience stigma related to their body size and shape ( Sherman my Fat stigma , which is very common , can significantly influence people experiences ( Meadows 2018 ) Here are just a few identities that experience severe stigmatization people who are fat people of color members of the community people with disabled bodies Table . Stigma management communication strategies , based on 2010 Accept that stigma applies to self Challenge that stigma applies to self Accept the public understanding of Stigma ( status quo ) Accepting stigma Avoiding stigma challenge the public understanding Evading responsibility for stigma Denying stigma of stigma ( change ) Reducing the offensiveness of stigma Ignoring stigma ( 2010 ) further expands on each ofthese behaviors An individual accepting a stigma may passively accept the status quo , apologize for their stigma , use humor as a source of comfort , blame the stigma for negative outcomes in one life , isolate themselves , or bond with other stigmatized people .

15 I DRESS , APPEARANCE , AND IDENTITY An individual avoiding a stigma might hide or deny their stigmatized attribute , avoid situations where this attribute is notable , stop the behavior that them , distance themselves from the stigma , or criticize others in an attempt to make themselves seem favorable by comparison . An individual evading responsibility for a stigma may accept that they display stigmatized attributes but challenge the ways those attributes are perceived by the public . For example , the individual may argue that they were born with the stigmatized attribute , that it was inflicted upon them , or that they can not change the way the public perceives them . An individual reducing the offensiveness of a stigma may attempt to reclaim the stigma by reinforcing the positive aspects of their stigmatized attribute , to minimize the damage of the stigma by arguing that their stigmatized attribute is not as severe or harmful as it is depicted by the public , or to transcend the stigma by explaining how their stigmatized attribute can be a positive one . An individual denying a Image Source Polina stigma may attempt to prove that the attributes they are stigmatized for should not be stigmatized , providing evidence for why the public perception of their attribute needs to change or highlighting logical fallacies in the way the attribute is addressed . Alternatively , the individual may deny that their attributes are stigmatized at all . An individual who wishes to decrease a stigma may ignore or display the stigmatized attribute by normalizing it or accepting it as a part of their identity . An individual using this communication strategy might flaunt their stigmatized attribute through dress or behavior or forgo means of dress that minimize or hide the stigmatized characteristic . Image Source a An interactive element has been excluded from this version of the text . You can view it online here .

DRESS , APPEARANCE , AND IDENTITY I 16 Focused Example A is a celebration in culture in which girls , on their birthdays , celebrate the transition from a childhood to womanhood . Central to the event is the formal , gown the girl wears . According to Lennon , Johnson , and Rudd ( 2017 ) these are consumption events they are a commercial opportunity ( a ) to buy products and experiences , that impact identity , that involve wearing special clothing and accessories which are used as props in identity assumption , and ( in which product consumption and experience consumption reinforce the identity ( 249 ) A is one of the many ways people in different stages of life , cultures , communities , ages , and thus identities negotiate their identity through dress . Watch this short film about One or more interactive elements has been excluded from this version of the text . You can view them here . To view a transcript for this video , download this file What is a Video Transcript References Cole . 2019 ) The difference is in the detail . Negotiating Black gay male style in the century . Dress , 45 ( 1963 ) Stigma Notes on the management of spoiled identity . New York Touchstone . Kaiser , 1997 ) The social psychology of clothing Symbolic appearances in context . New York . Kaiser , 2012 ) Fashion and cultural studies . London . Lennon , Johnson , Rudd , 2017 ) Social psychology of dress . London .

17 I DRESS , APPEARANCE , AND IDENTITY Dress , Appearance , and Identity Case Study Step One Become familiar with the case study . The case study attached below is a Word document and can be downloaded . It includes the task , evaluation , and template for the case study Dress and Identity Case Step Two Submit your complete assignment on Canvas . Format your document . Remember to check the submission against the rubric .